Fuel Pump Install for 94-97 Mustangs
NOTE: Proceed at your own risk, as the author of this article will take no responsibility for any damaging effects caused by following (or not following) the instructions herein. This install was performed on a '95 GT, but the basic tips/procedure should be the same for any Mustang '94-'97 v6/GT/Cobra. Take note that '98 Mustangs are their own breed more or less in a few areas, the fuel pump being included. You may be able to use these basic instructions for the '98s, or you may not. That is for you to determine. Also, the 99+ Mustangs have a different style fuel pump, but the install should be relatively the same. I also believe the install should be relatively the same for the '79-93 Fox Body Mustangs. Be sure to note what bolts go where, and not to confuse them. *DON'T FORGET WHICH BOLTS GO WHERE* This article written by Ashentep, please do not copy without proper credit.
**PICTURES COMING SOON**
Tools/Supplies needed:
Metric sockets (8mm and 13mm) in 3/8" drives
butterfly impact helps, but not necessary
assorted extensions (short, medium, long)
4 jack stands and jack or 2 stands and ramps (or even better a lift)
basic mechanical understanding
hammer and punch
1-2 hours of free time if all goes well
optional gasket between fuel tank and filler tube (part #F4ZZ-9072-CA on my '95)
Step 1: Either jack the rear of the car up, and rest it on jack stands, or back the car up onto a set of ramps. Which ever you do, chock the front wheels, and make certain the car is stable before working under the car. Unplug the wiring harness from the fuel pump shutoff safety switch and start the car to relieve the fuel pressure.
Step 2: Open the filler door, and remove the 3 screws holding the filler neck to the side of the car. Next, climb under the car and undo the 4 bolts that secure the filler neck gasket to the chassis.
Step 3: Unplug the wiring harness from the gas tank from that of the vehicle. Now, place 2 stands under the tank one at each end, and remove the 2 bolts holding the straps at the front of the tank. Now swing the driver's side strap out of your way, and remove the rear bolt holding the passenger side strap. Place a block of wood on your jack, and place it under the gas tank and take the weight off the stands. Remove the stands from under the gas tank.
Step 4: Slowly lower the gas tank as far as the gas lines will allow you. If you have the fuel line release tools, insert them into the fuel lines and remove them from the fuel pump assembly at the top of the tank. If you're unable to separate them (as myself), or do not have the tools, don't sweat it, the install can still be done.
Step 5: If you're fortunate enough to be able to remove the fuel lines, get the filler tube clear of the chassis and remove the tank from underneath the car. I could not get my filler tube through the chassis hole, as it was larger than the hole. I simply removed the filler tube from the tank end to allow me more movement. If you couldn't remove the fuel lines, you need to remove the filler tube from the tank also.
Step 6: Take a hammer and punch and turn the lock ring holding the fuel pump assembly in the tank counter clockwise. Once the lock ring is removed, if you were unable to remove the fuel lines, spin the tank 180* to give you clearance inside the tank to tilt the fuel pump assembly to remove it. If you were able to remove the fuel lines and have the tank outside the car, spin the fuel pump assembly 180* to give yourself clearance. Pull the pump up until it won't come up anymore, then tilt the assembly to allow the bend in the assembly to clear the tank.
Step 7: Once the assembly is clear of the tank, loosen the screw holding the fuel line onto the pump itself, and remove the line from the pump. Also, remove the positive and negative wires from the pump. Next, remove the strainer from the bottom of the pump, slide the pump up in the assembly, and remove it.
Step 8: Place the new pump into the assembly as the old pump was situated. Reconnect the positive and negative wires to the pump, as well as the fuel line, and tighten the screw holding the fuel line to the pump. Place the new strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump.
Step 9: Before reinserting the fuel pump assembly, check the gasket for the filler neck if you removed it. It is common for it to split in two, and the inside piece will fall into the tank if you try to reinsert the filler tube in that case. If it is split, replace it. It is a $20.47 part from Ford, and the replacement part # is F4ZZ-9072-CA. My local dealer had one in stock. Once you verify the gasket is good, or replace your bad gasket, you can proceed to reinstall the fuel pump assembly in the tank. Remember to place it in backwards, tilting the assembly as needed to clear the baffle inside, then rotate it (or the fuel tank if you're still under the car) back 180* to finish dropping it in place. Make sure the lock ring is in place, and rotate it by hand as much as you can. Now with the hammer and punch, tap it clockwise to finish locking the pump assembly into the tank.
Step 10: Now drag the tank back under the car, and raise it enough with the jack to reinsert the fuel lines, and LIGHTLY lube the filler neck with WD-40 or similar and reinsert it through the gasket. Now, finish raising the tank to proper height, and swing the driver's side strap into place and replace the bolt. Bolt the passenger side strap back into place, as well as the filler neck to the side of the car inside the fill door. Back under the car, plug the fuel pump harness back into place, as well as bolt the fill tube gasket to the chassis. Plug the fuel pump shutoff back in, and start the car. Once you ensure there are no leaks, you are good to go. Lower the car and enjoy.