Spring install on '79+ Mustangs
NOTE: Proceed at your own risk, as the author of this article will take no responsibility for any damaging effects caused by following (or not following) the instructions herein. *DON'T FORGET WHICH BOLTS GO WHERE* This article written by Ashentep, please do not copy without proper credit.
Tools/Supplies needed:
Metric sockets in 1/2" and/or 3/8"
drives
butterfly impact is a help in some areas
assorted extensions (short, medium, long)
WD-40 and/or PB Blaster for stubborn bolts
at least 2 jack stands and jack - 4 stands required for one rear spring method
(or preferably a lift)
basic mechanical understanding
1.5-6 hours free time
Front:
1. Raise vehicle and support with jackstands under frame behind front wheels. If frame flexes a lot with jackstands only under the frame behind the wheels, put a second set of stands under the K-member to prevent damage to vehicle. Remove front wheels.
2. Put jack under A-arm to support the spring's force, but do not compress it. Raise the hood and remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding the camber plates to the strut.
3. Remove caliper mounting hardware (for '94-98 v6/GTs, remove the single torx bolt, rotate caliper up, and pull off pin; for '99+ v6/GTs, remove two mounting bolts and pull caliper off rotor; for '93-04 Cobras, pull mounting pin out, rotate caliper up, and pull of rotor) and hang caliper in wheel well with mechanic's wire or a wire coat hanger. If your car has ABS, remove the wiring from the brackets by sliding them out of the slots.
94-95 caliper removal:
4. Loosen and remove swaybar upper endlink nut. You may need to hold the endlink still with a wrench on the bottom. Also at this time you should decide whether you want to remove the tie rod. It can be done with or without removing the tie rod. With the tie rod attached, it is more difficult to get the spring out, as the A-arm will not drop all the way. It is also more difficult to get some springs in. I prefer to remove the end link, but its up to you to decide what you do. If you decide to remove it, remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut, but do not remove it, and hit the endlink with a hammer. The older the car, the more difficult it will be to remove the endlink. I use a 3lbs mini sledge for this, by the way. once the endlink is loose, remove the nut.
5. After doing the above, you are ready to lower the jack under the A arm. Do so slowly, and watch the strut as it clears the wheel well. It is sometimes best to compress the strut by hand to allow it to clear before the jack starts to lower. You may hear a loud pop, but don't be alarmed, as its the swaybar endlink coming out of the swaybar end. Lower the jack all the way, and remove it from under the A arm. The spring should come close to falling out if you removed the end-link. If it needs a little persuasion, grab it by hand and give it a good jerk and it should fall right out. If you didn't remove the endlink, grab a pry bar of some sort and get the spring out of its seat. Be careful here as the spring will have some force behind it, but not a lot.
6. Grab the spring isolators off the old spring if you plan on reusing them and put them on the new spring. You may opt to not use isolators for an additional 1/4-3/8" drop. I have done installs both with and without the isolators and did not notice any additional noise either way. Place the new spring into its upper mount, and position the bottom of of the spring so that the end will be approximately halfway between the two small holes
in the bottom of the A-arm. Slowly raise the A-arm back into position. If spring slips a small amount, do not fret, but if it falls out of its seat completely, you must drop the arm back down and start over. As the arm goes back up, watch the strut carefully, and guide it back into the wheel well. At the same time, you must watch the swaybar endlink, and be sure to put it back into place at the right time also.
7. Once the strut is all the way back into position, replace the two nuts and bolt to hold it in position. You can now remove the jack to have more working room if you wish. Put the tie rod end back into place and replace the nut, along with a new cotter pin. replace the endlink bushing and nut. Re-mount the caliper in position. Remount wheel on that side and start from step 2 for the other side.
Rear springs:
Good news is the rears take half the time or less as the fronts. Bad news is its a bit harder to remove the springs, especially on cars with a single brake line to the rear axle.
1. Raise rear of vehicle and put jackstands under rear subframe (be sure to leave room for the LCA to drop). Remove rear wheels.
2a. You can do both springs on the rear at
the same time using my method, but I will also list a separate method that some
swear by where you do one side at a time. To begin my method, remove lower shock
bolts on both sides.
3a. Watch the soft brake line(s), as you do *NOT* want to stretch it, and slowly lower the jack as far as it will go without stretching the line(s). I find that on single brake line cars, the axle will not drop as far as those with soft lines for each wheel. Once the axle is dropped as far as it will go, stop the jack there and do not let the axle drop anymore.
4a. Those with 2 brake lines should be able
to pull the stock springs right out, but the single line cars may need a pry bar
to pry them out. Don't be scared, as there is not a lot of pressure on the
springs at this point, and they will simply fall out after broken loose of their
seats. If you have additional slack in the brake lines when the axle is bottomed
out and binds, you can press down (or stand on) the rear axle to help unseat the
old springs.
5a. Place isolators from old springs on new set. Place new set in place. I find
if the spring does not fit right in place, it helps to use a pry bar to get one
side to start up on the seat, then beat the spring in place with a mini sledge.
Contrary to how it sounds, its actually quite easy. To those cars with dual
brake lines you can usually just drop the spring right in place, and sometimes
can have someone stand on that side of the axle to give more clearance if
needed.
6a. Once both springs are in place, raise rear axle back up until it matches up with the shocks. Reinstall the lower shock nuts, and reattach the quad shocks. Replace wheels and you are done!
2b. For those who do not like the idea of the above, you can try this more difficult and, IMO, more dangerous install. Place jackstands under the axle to hold it in position. Remove 2 bolts on each side holding rear swaybar in place and place swaybar aside.
3b. Place floor jack under LCA to support the
spring's load. Remove rear LCA bolt from position, and lower jack until spring
falls out.
4b. Place spring isolators on new spring, hold in place on upper seat, and raise LCA with jack until it begins to compress spring. Keep an eye on the alignment of the LCA relative to the axle and make adjustments with a pry bar if necessary (almost always necessary).
5b. Once the LCA is back into position, replace rear LCA bolt. Repeat steps 3b-5b for other side.
6b. Replace rear swaybar, reinstall wheels, and lower vehicle.
One last note: Be sure to give the springs time to settle fully before taking the car to get an alignment. I generally give 1-2 weeks before getting an alignment, but as long as the car does not settle anymore, you should be good to go.