| 2000 Ford Mustang v6 - Common problems/questions/etc. | ||
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 My 2000 Ford Mustang v6 This is a common problem with the 99+ v6 Mustangs, and is almost always related to the IAC. The IAC controls the amount of air entering the engine to control the idle speed. When the IAC fails to do its job properly (dirty, broken, etc.), the idle quality suffers. You may have a surging idle, rough idle, or the car may not idle at all. If you experience this problem, you may want to try cleaning the IAC. This is done by taking it off the throttle body, and spraying carburetor cleaner into each oriface on it. Replace the IAC, and crank the car. You may or may not experience a change. Also, you should check your TPS voltage if you have an erratic idle. If your windows squeak while going up or down, particularly while wet, then either lubricate the weather stripping, or take the car back to Ford for them to lubricate it. LOTS of Mustangs are affected by a condition where they won't properly retract the seatbelts. This is most likely because of a broken part in the seatbelt mechanism, and you should take the car back to Ford for warranty replacement. There is an unspoken warranty on the seatbelts to (I believe) 80,000 miles. HP & Torque - 190hp 220lbs-ft torque Common RWHP #s - 150-165rwhp 0-60 - 7.0-8.5 1/4 Mile Time - 15.0-16.5 1/8 Mile Time - 9.8-11 60-0 - Skidpad - From the facotry, v6 Mustangs will only spin one tire when traction is broke. This is a problem to those who want the most performance from their cars. The most common fix is to obtain a Traction Lock differential carrier for a 7.5" axle and have it installed. Others look to getting an 8.8" axle from a GT that already has the Traction Lock installed, as well as the gearing they want. This also gives them the stronger 8.8" axle over the often-times brittle 7.5" axle. The stock 3.27s are great for the 5speed cars in daily drivers and those not concerned with performance. The automatics scream for more gearing, and those 5 speed drivers who want the extra kick would probably be much happier with 3.73s or even 4.10s. The numerically higher gears allow the motor to reach its powerband faster, and also gives the engine a higher mechanical advantage over the wheels, making the car feel much more powerful. The 3.8's stock single exhaust is ok for some, but for those interested in performance, it leaves a lot to be desired, such as sound, and extra power. The most common upgrade is purchasing a GT takeoff catback, and having a custom H-pipe built to connect it to the stock exhaust. Other options include a "Y catback" as I call them, that will connect to the factory Y pipe, and split back into duals. Also, the last option would be to purchase an H-pipe (and optional headers) to connect to any catback made to fit a GT mustang. Tires/Wheels The stock wheels aren't so pretty to most, so many go after a set of aftermarket wheels. Often times a set of 17" wheels can be had cheap by purchasing a set of stock GT wheels when the GT owner upgrades to Cobra wheels or what not. Lets face it. The stock tires are barely adequate at keeping the stock car from spinning at launch. With gears and a few modifications, the traction becomes an even greater problem. A good set of tires will help here. Take a look at BFG KDW, BFG KD, BFG Drag Radials, Nitto 555 ZRs, and Nitto 555 R Drag Radials for better traction. A larger size of 275/40/17 will help a little more. If you're looking for the best performance on the track, then take a look at Mickey Thompson ET Drags or ET Streets. You'll have to get them in a 16" size to fit on the rear of the IRS Cobras, though. The stock shifters in these cars aren't known for their precise, short, or accurate shifts. If you're looking to improve on your shifting time, check out Steeda's Tri-Ax, the Pro 5.0, and other such aftermarket shifters. Again, any of these should be better than the stock piece, but the Tri-Ax and Pro-5.0 are considered the best. There is a debate on Cold Air Induction systems. Many guys say that they won't make more power, many say they will. The truth of the matter is that with the stock MAF sensor, idle quality will be reduced with any CAI that has an elbow right before the sensor. The best way to go for these systems, is to pick up a Pro-M MAF sensor that is calibrated for these types of elbowed kits. You should see ~5-8rwhp gains with a good CAI system. There are different sets of springs available for these cars, from those that will totally slam the car to the ground, to those that drop no more than 1", but provide a very stiff base for a nice handling car. To put your car in the weeds, look to H&R's Super Sports, and Eibach's Sportline kits. For a smaller drop, and factory like handling, look to the Eibach Pro-kit. For a small drop and stiff, but good handling, look to H&R's Race springs, or Maximum Motorsport's Coil-Over kits. Ford C springs and Steeda Sports are also good offerings with a medium rate (higher than Eibach Pro-Kits, but lower than H&R Race springs) and about a 1" drop. If you change the springs out for a stiffer aftermarket set, then you'll need a set of good shocks and struts to compliment them. Not only will the handling be improved, but the ride will be smoothed out quite a bit by a good set of matched shocks and struts. Call Maximum Motorsports or some other respected suspension experts for their recommendations on shocks and struts to match your springs. |